Jet set menswear


“Jet set menswear”

By:  Steven Carver

Featured in BELLO mag issue #119


For as long as there have been different cultures, there have been those who have been inspired by them.  More often than not, when fashion designers are in need of a novel idea, they look to other parts of the world.  It should be no surprise that US designers are looking at the minimalist silhouettes of the east, just as Asia looks to the west for streetwear concepts.

For Avellaneda, the feeling is that of Italy by way of Spain, or at least the Mediterranean.  Founded in 2013 by Juan Avellaneda, the high end menswear label places a strong emphasis on using the finest fabrics as a basis for all of its collections.  Think rich materials – leathers, fur, and cashmere – cut into classic menswear shapes, often with a twist.  It takes traditional tailoring and softens it, while a warm and earthy palate adds spice to the mixture.

Born and raised in Barcelona, the designer had a love of fashion from a young age and always yearned to create beautiful things; clothing being one of them.  He studied creative management (with a specialty in Asiatic cultures) at the prestigious Central Saint Martins in London and freelanced at other fashion brands – frequently traveling between Madrid and Barcelona – before heading off on his own.

Being a jetsetter, he needed to have something to wear that was comfortable yet cosmopolitan.  Avellaneda’s peripatetic life had his schedule in frequent chaos – going from a plane to a meeting to a lunch/dinner and then drinks – and changing outfits between appointments wasn’t always possible.  With necessity being the mother of invention, he knew there was a need for a menswear line that was upscale, yet relaxed.

It all starts with the materials.  How they feel to the touch and how they drape on the form, are important parts of designing each collection.  Being a fan of texture (linens, woolens, leather and especially suede), Avellaneda found that sourcing high quality materials can be difficult for a small brand.  Purchasing fabrics from the same suppliers as top fashion houses, prices are reflected in the end product.

Updating traditional – and sometimes stuffy – dress codes, the collection’s clothing requires a closer look to spot sartorial differences.  A blazer has a softer shoulder, sweaters are made with thicker knits, pants have wider silhouettes, and distinctive buttons and trimmings are a small part of finishes.  Being a fan of the double-breasted coat with a belt, Avellaneda realizes men need to be confident while wearing his line, but although clothes don’t make the man but they do help solidifying a persona.

And with everything made in Spain by the best professionals in their field, there’s an element of pride – both nationalistic and of workmanship – that goes into every piece.  Avellenada’s thinking is to ask why travel to another country (say Italian leather works or Savile Row tailoring) to produce a collection when the local talent is unsurpassed in his own backyard?  No jet setting is required.

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About The Author

Aleksandar Tomovic
Editor in Chief

French photographer (of Serbian Origins) lives and works in Los Angeles. Known for his celebrity fashion editorials and recognized around the world for his european esthetics and american efficiency.

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