NYFW Diaries, part 3

Going to bed late didn’t make me want to wake up early. I wanted to make it to the Katama (katamaswim.com) presentation on a stationary sailing boat docked at Pier 25. Truly. Garrett Neff, top male model and designer, expanded his swimwear line into sportswear (knits and bomber jackets), with nautical-themed looks in blue, white and red. A plus: tan, shirtless male models who didn’t complain about the sunshine.

katama collage

With the never ending heat, I prayed for shade and air conditioned buildings while I walked downtown. The spring 2018 preview of Everest Isles (everestisles.com) showed elevated swimwear staples, with men’s shorts in three lengths, mostly in a watery palette (black sells well – I own a pair of them). New products (a short that packed into its pocket, rubberized backpacks) and items made with ECONYL (a yarn produced with nylon products that have reached the end of their product life) were things to look forward to next year.

Before heading out, I spotted a line of paint-splattered backpacks from Cote et Ciel (coteetciel.com). They were artful yet practical, and I hoped they weren’t only one-off, editorial samples.

Back to Skylight Clarkson Sq I went for the Parke and Ronen (parkeandronen.com) show. Celebrating their 20th anniversary, the collection wasn’t a greatest hits parade, but rather an evolution of their fun and carefree aesthetic. With John Denver’s “Rocky Mountain High” on the soundtrack, designers Parke Lutter and Ronen Jehezkel gave us cotton voile shirting, drawstring linen pants, suede accents, knit shirts and mesh tanks, lightweight jackets – done in a range of pale tones. But it was the swimwear that really made everyone pay attention; from Speedo styles to five-inch trunks in a variety of prints and patterns.

parke and ronen collage

A front row section of male influencers couldn’t put down their phones, snapping away looks for next season. Things to note: as handsome as they are, most were shorter in person and – strangely enough – began to resemble one another.

There was a palpable energy at Landlord (landlordnewyork.com). Why? I could see it while facing performing artist Young Paris (signed to RocNation) and basketball player, Kelly Oubre Jr. (seeing his entourage of 10+ people try to find front row seats was amusing) turned heads. Designer Ryohei Kawanishi used reggae as the basis of his spring collection, and having lived in Dalston (a neighborhood in East London known for its Caribbean community), it didn’t come across as cultural appropriation. The camo prints meshed with a faux Burberry plaid (in head-to-toe looks) and a hint the current preppy tropes from Gucci worked well, and the Rastafarian color blocking were a welcome blast of energy.

landlord collage

It was time to head off to Cadillac House. The Matiere (matiere.com) show was one I was excited about. Scot Shandalove used his extensive fabric knowledge to give the collection a sophisticated twist on after work wear – don’t call it athleisure. The flowing anoraks and coach jackets (some in a crinkled texture), layered over tanks and Ts in a palate of black and white (with a few pieces in a pale blue and lavender) were spot on, while the tech fabrics (a reflective Italian textile and a Japanese high shine nylon and raw silk) added texture. A blend of west-coast-meets-east-coast, I had to say, I wanted it all.

After I had a cocktail (or two) and took a few snaps for social media, I headed outside to a blast of sweltering heat. There were many people “casually hanging around” on the sidewalk, hoping to be photographed by street style photographers. I took no photos of them.

matiere collage

On the way back downtown, I enjoy whatever breeze I can find. There was an occasional smile on my face. If the day went well, the evening was going to get better…

About The Author

Steven Carver
International Editor

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